Hello dear! How are you feeling? Today we will drive to the northeast of Tenerife. This is a mountainous area in the full sense of the word and there is Anaga National Park. We will go through the main viewing platforms, get to the black beach of Benijo and the northernmost town of the island — Igesta de San Andres.
Anaga Park (Rural de Anaga) is the kingdom of ancient laurel groves. The humid climate of Anagi has preserved the most valuable variety of laurels in the world — the Azores laurel. Groves of this laurel were found in the Cenozoic period. Now they remained only in the Canaries, in Madeira and the Azores. These forests and mountains occupy 8% of the entire island.
The name «Anaga» comes from the name the Guanches ancient leader (Menceyato de Anaga). At that time Tenerife was divided into 9 zones, which were ruled by the leaders. Being the easternmost part it was under the control of the leader Beneharo of Anaga (Beneharo el de Anaga).
ANAGA VIEW POINTS
It will be more interesting tp start the route from Santa Cruz de Tenerife or San Cristobal de la Laguna. So you can drive through the entire park and then go down to the coast.
Rising higher into the mountains you miss the moment when the sun faded in the wet fog. Just minute ago you rode in a stream of buzzing cars and clumsy buses. But then you turned onto some other road and as in the Matrix you follow the white ‘rabbit’ into the unknown.
A soft moist forest covers a cool stone, like a soft tiger skin covers its steel muscles. Ancient. Smelling like moss and wet clouds. There is twilight from which sharp translucent rocks and tree branches jump onto the windshield.
Man-made concrete road is protected from the surrounding mist only by trees. Right above their tops in a narrow band of light at wild speeds rushes fog. The wind breaks with its entire mass on rocks and tree branches, scattering into hundreds of small streams. Put your head or arm there and a white stream will drag you down the mountainside.
The main viewing platforms along the road:
-Mirador de Jardina. View of La Laguna.
-Cruz del Carmen. This is the information center of the park, there is a cafe and a souvenir shop. Here, by the way, I found very cool perfumes with jasmine. And from the parking lot there are signs to the circular route through the groves. A walk will take 30-40 minutes.
In general, the island has a lot of routes of varying difficulty and distance. The most famous is Bosque Encantado or the Enchanted Forest. Start at La Ensillada, where you can park your car. You need special permission for this route but getting it, just like on Teide, is quite easy (https://centralreservas.tenerife.es/actividad/1). Below are links to useful sites on this topic.
-Pico del Ingles. Also beautiful view
-Era de los Cardos. This is the visiting card of the island. But this observation deck still needs to be reached. Get to the village of Taborno. There, leave your car and follow the path to the Roque de Taborno mountain. 4 km to go. At its peak will be the observation deck itself. We didn’t get there but the photos on the Internet are inspiring)
We drove further to the very center of the park and from there, through the village of Taganana, went down to the north coast to the beaches of Del Roque de las Bodegas (playa del Roque de las Bodegas) and Benijo (playa de Benijo). The road down was not as hard as in the Mask gorge but still it made me nervous too.
From the road that runs along the seething edge of the ocean, the island is impregnable and gloomy. Like spikes on the dragon's tail, the sharp cliffs stick up in their scattered order. They tear the belly of the clouds, washing in the rain, like in the blood of defeated enemies. Wild mountains. Evil and black as ash.
And this dark mountains crumble on the gloomy beaches. On their basaltic body, the foam of the ocean waves seems so snow-white.
Bodegas and Benijo are the only two black sand beaches on the island. Roque de las Bolegas beach is especially popular among local people and surf students. There are “correct” waves, a very gentle entrance to the water and few pitfalls, but you need to pay attention to the ebbs and flows.
SOUTH SIDE OF ANAGI
Again we drove up the mountains, cross the park and descend on the other side. After foggy sharp peaks and gloomy forests covering them, the cheerful yellow sand, the squeals of children and the noise of a living city is almost repel.
A strong contrast between the severity and isolation of the mountains and the solar stream of everyday life. As if you were already inadmissible to loudly discuss the latest news, to spread sand with a shovel on the beach, just to read a book or to stare on the phone at the shaky table of an outdoor cafe resting in the sun. Because the cold fog is still swirling somewhere near the heart.
-Teresitas Beach (Playa de Las Teresitas).
If you go along the coast towards the city of Igueste de San Andrés, it will be difficult to miss the observation deck overlooking Las Teresitas beach — from Sahara imported sand — and the island's capital Santa Cruz. There is also an abandoned building, completely outlined with graffiti.
— Cemetery Igueste San Andrés
In the town of Igeste de San Andrés, you can leave your car and immediately from the bus stop begins a simple trail to the cemetery on the hillside. It is very small and will most likely be closed. But if you go further along the path you can reach another observation deck Semáforo de Igueste, overlooking the coast and the capital.
You can get to the park by bus: from Santa Cruz (routes 945 and 947); from La Laguna (routes 076, 077, 273, 274 and 275).
Sites with walking routes:
http://www.wandermap.net/ — all over the world you can search
https://www.visittenerife.ru/chem-zanjatsja/priroda/peshij-turizm/marshruty/ — specifically for Tenerife
Keep in touch! MarrySav
This post is also available in: Russian